Condensation trapped between panes and fogged-up glass can make any room feel cold, damp and uncared for.
We replace tired units with high‑performance double glazing, made-to-measure and professionally fitted by FENSA‑registered installers, backed by a free home survey and a 10‑year guarantee for homeowners across Manchester.
Expect uPVC to be the most affordable option per window, aluminium to sit mid‑to‑high for slim sightlines and durable powder‑coated finishes, and timber to be the premium choice, especially factory‑finished hardwoods.
Costs increase for custom sizes, triple glazing, argon or low‑E glass, laminated or acoustic units, upgraded gaskets, multi‑point locks and difficult installations that may need scaffolding or structural work.
We provide clear, itemised quotes, solid warranties and full FENSA paperwork from the start, and the rest of this page explains how to compare specifications, understand £ prices and avoid false economies on your new windows.
Takeaways
- A-rated double or triple glazing cuts heat loss and heating bills, with options like argon fill and low‑E coatings.
- Multi-point locking, quality hardware and laminated glass improve home security and can reduce some home insurance premiums.
- FENSA or Certass registration and insurance‑backed guarantees protect your investment and support future property resale value.
- Flexible installation slots, clear surveys and efficient fitting help minimise disruption and keep projects on time and budget.
- Finance plans, staged payments and occasional government grants can spread costs and make upgrades more affordable overall.
Typical Double Glazing Prices: uPVC, Aluminium & Timber (Per Window & Per Project)
Compare double glazing prices by frame material and you’ll get a clearer idea of what you’ll actually spend on a full install.
uPVC is usually the lowest-cost option per window and per job. A standard A-rated, 28mm argon-filled, low‑E uPVC casement with multi-point locking and internally beaded frames will normally beat aluminium and timber on price and still give you very low draughts with a decent Q-LON gasket system.
Aluminium sits in the mid-to-high price bracket. You’re paying more for slimmer sightlines, powder‑coated finishes and thermally broken frames that still take a 28mm sealed unit. On a typical three‑bed replacement in, say, Manchester, aluminium can add several hundred pounds across the project compared with like‑for‑like uPVC.
Timber is usually the premium choice. Proper factory-finished softwood or hardwood frames with A-rated double glazing, trickle vents and quality ironmongery cost more upfront but offer excellent insulation and suit period properties. You’ll need to allow for repainting or re‑staining every few years to keep the frames sound and draught‑free.
Factor maintenance into your budget. uPVC needs little more than hinge and lock adjustment and a clean. Aluminium generally just needs hardware checks and a wipe down. Timber needs occasional sanding, filling and repainting or sealing to keep water out and avoid swelling or rot.
Non-standard and made‑to‑measure sizes push both per‑window and full project costs up, especially for bays, shaped frames and large fixed panes. Always get at least three written quotes, check what’s included (glass spec, hardware, cills, trims, disposal of old frames) and make sure you’ll receive a FENSA certificate number on completion so you know the installation meets Building Regulations.
Why Prices Vary: Frame Material, Glass Options & Energy Ratings
Prices move around because the details change, even if two windows look much the same on paper.
uPVC is usually the cheapest frame option. You’ll pay more for aluminium with a proper thermal break or for hardwood timber because the sections cost more and take longer to fabricate and finish. A standard white uPVC casement with a 28mm argon-filled, low‑E A‑rated sealed unit will usually come in well under the price of the same size window in hardwood with the same glass.
Glass spec makes a big difference. A simple double-glazed unit is cheaper than:
- A 28mm A‑rated unit with argon fill and low‑E coating
- A 36mm triple-glazed unit
- Laminated acoustic glass with a wider cavity for noise reduction
Those upgrades improve U‑values and cut draughts and heating loss, but you’ll see them on the quote as extra cost per unit, often £40–£120 more per opening depending on size and spec.
Higher energy-rated windows normally have better gaskets and hardware. For example, a uPVC casement with Q‑LON gaskets, multi‑point locking, internally beaded sashes and A‑rated glass will price above a basic B‑rated unit using cheaper seals and hardware. The difference is usually in the details of the profile and the glass build-up, not just the look.
If you need noise reduction near a busy road in, say, Muswell Hill, acoustic upgrades push the price up again. Laminated panes, different glass thicknesses in the same unit and larger cavities all help, but they add weight and cost, so hinges and fittings need uprating too.
When you compare quotes, line up the details, not just the headline £ figure. Check:
- Frame material and profile (uPVC, aluminium with thermal break, timber)
- Glass build (thickness, 28mm or 36mm, argon-filled, low‑E, laminated or not)
- Energy rating (A, B, etc.) and U‑value shown in writing
- Hardware and security (multi‑point locks, hinge type, internal beading)
- Gasket type and colour
- FENSA certificate number on completion and warranty length
If those items don’t match, you’re not comparing like-for-like – you’re just comparing prices on a bit of paper.
Installation & Site Cost Drivers: Complex Fits, Scaffolding & Planning
Once the frame, glass and hardware are agreed, the site work still has a big say in the final bill. Made-to-measure sashes, shaped frames and large panes take longer to fit because every 28mm sealed unit has to be packed, sealed and trimmed so the low‑E, argon‑filled glass performs as it should and doesn’t draught or trap condensation.
Awkward access pushes costs up. Tight rear alleys, narrow driveways or first‑floor bays over a conservatory can mean extra labour, hand‑balling units instead of using a hoist, and more time on site protecting brickwork, tiles and existing frames.
Scaffolding, roof protection and temporary supports are usually priced by the lift and by the week. If we need a full scaffold for a week at £x–£y, extend that by another week and the scaffold bill moves with it, along with any extra hires for glass suckers or lifting gear.
On older properties in places like Leeds we often uncover rotten cills, failed lintels or loose brickwork once the old windows are out. Build in a small contingency and ask for a written breakdown of:
- Labour and access (including any manual handling time)
- Scaffolding and protection
- Disposal of old frames and glass
- Any structural repair rates
That way you can compare like‑for‑like quotes, and you’ll know exactly what’s included before we order your internally beaded, multi‑point locking frames and issue the FENSA certificate number on completion.
Save Smart: Upgrades That Add Value Vs False Economies
Chasing the cheapest quote usually means something’s been left out. Spending a bit more on the right upgrades pays you back in lower bills, a warmer house and better resale value.
We always start with the glass and frames. A-rated 28mm argon-filled units with a soft coat low-E glass and warm-edge spacer bar hold the heat in, cut condensation and make the house more attractive to buyers than basic clear units. Pair that with a decent profile and Q-LON gaskets and you’ll notice fewer draughts and less outside noise.
Security is next. Multi-point locking, internally beaded frames and toughened glass in doors and low-level windows do more for your home than fancy handles or dummy bars. Insurance companies recognise these details, and buyers do too.
Cheap frames and seals are never really “maintenance free”. Inferior gaskets flatten, beads warp and you’re looking at misted units or failed locks years earlier than you should be. A made-to-measure window with quality hardware and a solid manufacturer’s warranty usually costs a bit more upfront but works out cheaper over 15–20 years.
Always get the full specification in writing so you’re comparing like for like:
- Glass rating (e.g. A-rated, 28mm argon-filled, low-E)
- Frame profile and reinforcement
- Gasket type (e.g. Q-LON)
- Locking system (e.g. multi-point, key-locking handles)
- Toughened or laminated glass where required
- FENSA certificate number on completion
That’s how you avoid false economies that land you with higher bills, draughts and replacement costs a few years down the line.
Supplier Checklist: Questions to Ask & How to Compare Quotes
If you want a fair comparison, get everything in writing and make sure you’re comparing like-for-like. Confirm the basics first: profile system, frame material (uPVC, aluminium, timber), glass spec (e.g. 28mm A-rated, argon-filled, low‑E), spacer bar type, and hardware (multi-point locking, internally beaded). Check lead times from survey to fit, not just “supply only”.
Ask for a fully itemised quote. You want separate prices for:
- Each window/door
- Labour
- Making good and trims
- Disposal of old frames and glass
Ask to see recent installs locally and speak to at least one customer who’s had their frames in for a winter. Check who registers the work and confirm you’ll get a FENSA certificate number on completion. Get warranty details in writing: how many years on frames, sealed units, and hardware, plus what’s excluded (for example, accidental glass breakage).
Clarify how the install will be done: use of packers, fixing method, foam and sealants, Q-LON or similar compressible gaskets, and how they’ll protect floors and brickwork. Agree who snags the job, how you report issues, and how quickly they’ll come back.
Set basic communication rules before you sign: main contact, how you’ll get updates, and typical response times. Ask who arranges any council permits if needed and confirm all waste, old frames and broken glass are taken off site and disposed of legally.
If quotes are a long way apart, ask what’s different: glass spec, profile, locking systems, reinforcement, or if one has trickle vents and the other doesn’t. Keep a simple checklist and score each supplier on spec, fitting detail, warranty, and price in £, then pick the best overall value for your home in Manchester.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do Window Warranties Cover Labour for Future Repairs?
Labour usually isn’t covered for future repairs, just the parts like the frames or 28mm sealed units. Some manufacturers give limited labour cover for the first year or so, but that often stops if the warranty is transferred to a new owner. Always read the small print and use a FENSA-registered installer to keep the guarantee valid.
Can I Replace Single Panes Instead of Whole Windows?
Yes, you can usually just change the broken pane if the frame and sash are still sound. We’d swap in a new sealed unit, check the beads, gaskets and any muntins, and make sure it’s up to current safety and energy regs – A-rated glass, 28mm argon-filled unit if you want. A FENSA-registered fitter should also check for draughts and give a proper guarantee.
Are Acoustic Glazing Options Worth the Extra Cost?
Yes, in many cases it’s worth spending a bit extra. Proper acoustic glazing, with thicker laminated panes and a wider 28mm sealed unit, can cut traffic or neighbour noise by a noticeable few decibels. If you’re near a main road, railway or flight path, it usually means better sleep, less stress and can help your resale value too.
How Long Do New Frames Typically Take to Settle/Settle In?
They usually take anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks to bed in properly. You might notice tiny shifts as the gaskets compress, screws settle and the frames go through a few hot–cold cycles, which is normal. Give them a check after a month and again at three months, and let your installer know if you see persistent draughts or sticking.
Do Suppliers Remove and Recycle Old Windows?
Yes, we usually take the old windows away as part of the job. Most firms will recycle the uPVC and metal where possible and dispose of glass and sealants correctly, sometimes with a small recycling or waste fee shown on the quote. Always ask if that fee includes glass, old frames, and any hazardous materials so there are no surprises.